FOR THOSE WHO HAVE VISITED ISLAND HVAR most will be familiar with the major destinations of Hvar Town, Jelsa, Vrboska and Starigrad. Towns that are written about in the international travel magazines and visited by thousands of people from all over the world…and rightly so…they are beautiful and each has it’s own characteristic charm, culture and history, wonderful cuisine, wines and ambiance, HOWEVER, yesterday we visited one of the most delightful seaside hamlets at POKRIVENIK COVE, located on the northern side of Island Hvar, a half hour drive east from Starigrad, directly opposite Makarska on the mainland.
A magical hidden Gem, the Cove of Pokrivenik on Island Hvar
We took the local ferry from Split to Starigrad, a 2 hour journey, arriving at 10.30am. We were warmly greeted by cousin Leo Lunjevich from Auckland. Leo and family, (wife Sandy and children Ben and Ellie), are visiting Croatia for the summer and staying at Sandy’s Zencic family home…the original home of her grandfather, located on the beachfront of an idyllic bay. A perfect place for the family to relax, swim, snorkel, and enjoy a stream of visiting friends!
The drive to Pokrivenik Cove took us through the world famous fields of Starigrad, now protected by UNESCO..fields that were cultivated by the ancient Greeks some 2000 years ago. Arriving from the Greek Island of Pharos they settled in this area amidst a fertile field, capable of supporting the families that had travelled far from their homeland seeking a safe haven and place to live a more peaceful and sustainable life. With them they carried their vines and various plants which are still cultivated here today. Following the Greeks came the Romans then the Croats arrived in the 7th Century, finally changing the name of the island from Phar-os to Hvar.
I had heard all about this magical place called Pokrivenik, but nothing had really prepared me for what I was about to see and experience! We drove down the narrow winding road through a heavily wooded gorge…and then, there before us was a sight to behold! The most picturesque little bay, a small camping ground, ‘Camp Ivan’ amidst fig and fruit trees of all descriptions, a cluster of old stone houses on the water’s edge and a pebbled beach with waters so strikingly jade green and turquoise blue, so inviting on this day of blue skies and high summer July temperatures.
It was great to see Sandy and the children after a period of 8 years. So much to chat about and catch up on all the relatives back in New Zealand and Australia. I noticed the children were not on any technical device, they were happily reading books!!!
Leo explained about life in this paradise of Pokrivenik. Out on the point of the cove is HOTEL TIMUN and restaurant…a small hotel on the sea, a distance of 500 metres or so from the Zencic hamlet of old stone waterfront houses. The restaurant provides a transfer service by a little open boat, transferring guests to and from the restaurant, also delivering food and pizza, and fresh homemade bread in the mornings.
For those wishing to stay in this heavenly paradise, far from the maddening crowd, a place to wash away the stresses of our modern busy lifestyle, there is excellent accommodation, 2 very nicely restored apartments provided by Zencic family decendents, each sleeping 4 persons, each apartment priced at 80 Euro per night. A third more rustic apartment next door sleeps 8 guests priced at 80 euro per night. Great value!