In 2023, Mid month of May, with time on my hands, I fulfilled a promise to visit some long-time friends in Podgora, a 1.5 hour drive south of Split on the Makarska Riviera. The coastal road is a scenic extravaganza, especially on a clear and sunny day with the blue waters of the Adriatic shimmering as far as the eye can see. I spent 3 days visiting friends that I’ve known since my first visit as a young married woman. It’s always a great feeling coming back to familiar faces, and super friendly people.

Together with friends, I took a drive up into the old village of Gornje (Upper) Podgora, damaged by an earthquake in 1962, and now being restored by many international and local people. We discovered many new buildings being built on land parcels that were previously zoned for agriculture but now re-zoned ‘Residential’ which is great to see.

The views are spectacular from this vantage point, with the Dalmatian islands of Šolta, Brač, Hvar, Korčula and the Peljasac Peninsula stretching from North to South along the coastline. Directly behind us the majestic mountain of Biokovo also beckons, with promises of alpine wildflowers, medicinal herbs, wild horses and the native wild goats that scamper up and around the cliffs with amazing speed and agility. This is also the home of the newly constructed Skywalk, in the Biokovo National Park. Also the Hiking Trails are plentiful through this area, and very popular all year round.

Accommodation is Podgora is plentiful, from various categories of hotels to private apartment accommodation, both down by the seaside or up high in the Gornje (Upper) Podgora, where many beautiful old stone houses have been restored and most have private pools as an added attraction. I can highly recommend a few that I have enjoyed inspecting, guaranteeing a very pleasurable stay for those who love fresh,he permanent population of Podgora is 2250. However, between May and September, an additional 6000 visitors can be added to that number.

The beaches in Podgora boast crystal clear waters and white smooth pebbled shores that are so comforting for those seeking the warmth of the stones and their recuperative healing properties. Take a massage in a secret secluded garden and dine on fresh seafood at one of the seaside restaurants at sunset….pure bliss! In 2023 I decided to permanently move from Split Podgora. A GREAT DECISION!

The old churches of St. Liberan and St. Roko in Upper Podgora, were both damaged in the earthquake of 1962, and both have been recently beautifully restored.

The Church of St. Liberan was named by a long serving Gaelic Bishop, and is very unusual in this part of the world, and can only be found in Southern Dalmatia. The location of St. Liberan is in the forest near the area close to Vrutak above ?aklje…..

The little church of St. Roko also in Upper Podgora was built in 1672 at the time of the Black Plague that wiped out millions well before the Spanish Flu of the 18th Century., in front of the church there was a cemetery where the plague victims were buried en masse. The invading enemy took the missing bell during WW1 and melted it down into cannonballs! (A little bit of history)

Podgora is well known as a fishing village, where fishing trawlers are moored in the little safe harbour. Fresh fish is always abundant, and the salty fishermen always have their stories to tell.. The walking trails up into the mountains are popular with walking groups, and are well signposted… Beekeeping is another well-established private industry, with the highest quality non-adultered honey being produced in abundance. The hills are covered with olive groves and the olive oil produced by the locals is of exceptional quality and taste, particularly by those following the modern rules of extra virgin olive oil production which requires olives to be picked and the oil extracted within 24-48 hours reducing the amount of natural oxidation. Of course, every local proclaims to have produced the BEST product at the end of the day! As for the local figs, say no more!!!

Talking about the men, I remember Podgora from years ago, when young Czech, Slovak, and Bosnian girls came for the summer to the Makarska Riviera with thoughts of love and romance on their minds. With moonlight shimmering on the sea and the perfume of lavender and pine wafting in the air, the young local Dalmatian boys of Podgora were only too eager to fulfill their romantic desires. Today, these same young men are now fathers and grandfathers, happily married, or not so happy, but the memories of those days of lust and romance linger as thoughts about their conquests and happy carefree days in the sun.

Meanwhile, the women of Podgora are strong in mind, body, and spirit. Their family bonds are powerful, and they place the utmost importance on motherhood and family matters. During Summer, they rule the roost when the tourist season swamps Podgora with guests. Most families have developed apartments over the years. It’s the primary source of income for these very resilient Podgorians. However, everything works in Podgora according to the season. The women fulfil many roles, from mother to wife and lover, to apartment management, to planting their vegetables, harvesting olives together with their menfolk, preparing for Advent, Christmas, and New Year celebrations, pruning the olive groves, gathering fruit and making jams and preserves, and much more! The Meaning of the name Podgora: POD – Under, GORA- Mountain

I have many friends in this place I call home, friends who are always willing to help solve problems and are so generous in many ways. Dubravka, Ina, Nikola, Vedrana, Vanja, Antica, Minka, Vito, Stanka, Ivana, Tonči, Dr Teo, Lada, Braco, Zelka, Edi, Julie, Ico, Julia and a special mention of Patricija, Lucija, and last but by no means least, my next-door compatriot, Maja Vodanović, my devil’s advocate, my friend, my mentor, my fitness trainer, and my advisor on all matters of the heart and I am so thankful to have her as my friend. The meaning of the name PODGORA: POD – under, GORA- mountain, a place to rest, recuperate, and refresh.